I haven’t been to Pakistan, and I don’t have an invitation to visit either—not that you need one. I could hop a few planes to Karachi, but I don’t get off on tourist packages. Instead, I need to meet someone who knows a good place to get Nihari and the right way to have a night on the town. Later, we’ll spend a day huffing spices at the Empress Market, and then find a quiet place to drink local beer while I attempt to get my head around local politics. In other words, I need to make some slightly subversive friends.
Many of us believe—wrongly—that we’re free to go where we want, when we want, and expect to be safe while we do it. It’s a nice idea, but it’s not real. If you don’t follow me, consider a walk through south-central L.A. after dark. You’ll be poppin-collars with Bottega Veneta at your hip, matching shoes and Cartier Buffs like that football-guy. We’ll park the Audi on any side-street and just head out to see what’s going on. No one would dream of messing with us, right?
That said, it’s not really the place that’s dangerous, it’s who you’re with and what you’re selling. You could be just as out of place at a Trump convention, a mosque or a trip abroad and as long as you’re not being a dick, you’ll be fine if you find someone to take you around. That’s easiest when you have some currency to spread around. You make a donation to the cause, or buy the drinks, but as soon as your pockets dry up, which happens faster without friends to watch your back, you’ll be alone again, and still out of place—which is why it’s better to be invited.
Back in Pakistan, besides the mountain climbers, which I am not, there are plenty of historical destinations, beaches, restaurants and the other usual ways for curious travelers to spend their money. While I’m not opposed to a limited amount of sightseeing—I wouldn’t mind seeing K2’s base camp if it weren’t for the two week trek to get there—I’m far more interested in the way people relax and spend their time. So, when I go to Pakistan, it’ll be for a Karachi United match against their rival and then tea at an open air café—also chicken biryani. How will I choose among thousands of street vendors? I’ll trust my friends.
I’m not saying that the world is full of robbers and rapists, just waiting to pounce. But it is full of people who find it easy to ignore or mistreat others who are out of place. Make friends, join them and enjoy their differences. They make the world beautiful. If you’re a travel-package person, or not, consider why you leave home in the first place. If you’re heading out to confirm that the world is as you expect it to be, I pity you. Also, don’t go to Pakistan, it shouldn’t have to change for you.
For more about Pakistani comfort food, click here.
